Top 12 short hikes with Hawaiian Taste …Aloha!
Waianapanapa State Park. Photos: Bill Watson
By Bill Watson
Hawaii is one of the most beautiful spots on the planet. View-wise, it has everything from clear blue waters, to golden beaches, to lush rain forests, to high mountains, to volcanoes. And for those of us who like views with a bit of elevation and don’t want the hassle of trying to evade the guard at the Haiku Stairs, Hawaii gives you the most bang for your buck with some spectacular short hikes. While there are many more to choose from, here are some of my favorites - a Hawaiian sampler over four of the Islands: Oahu, Maui, Hawaii & Kauai.
Oahu near Honolulu and to the east:
1. Diamond Head is a must do!
Photo: Gregory Thompson
Diamond Head if you don’t get there before 8AM is crazy crowded, as lots of tourist buses hit this early. The hike will get your heart pumping as it starts up a gradual climb that changes to switchbacks that changes to stairs, goes through a dark tunnel, and then goes through a bunker where you need to climb a staircase similar to a lighthouse and then a few more stairs and duck your head to get out the top. Really cool and the views at the top are great of Waikiki, the lighthouse, the crater and ocean, as well as the eastern beaches. Take water! Regardless of the crowds, the hike is worth it and a great workout, like many of these Hawaiian hikes. The only reason I give this four and not five stars is because of the crowds and the wait time to go through the bunker. The line forms both ways up and down the steps in the bunker and allows only one person at a time to get into or out of the bunker. Enjoy!
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/diamond-head-leahi-summit-trail
2. China Wall/Spitting Cave – Great Action Set!
Photo: Bill Watson
Also east from Honolulu and before Hanauma Bay, waves thunder into a layered shoreline cliff known as the China Wall. The China Wall and Spitting Cave have been used many times for filming TV shows like LOST, The Event and Off the Map. The area is a geological masterpiece with multiple slick rock layers caused by surf erosion. The China Wall access from Koko Kai Beach Park allows access to a shelf where waves slide past with great force - watch out for rogue waves on this lower side of the China Wall. The Spitting Cave is east of Koko Kai and accessed via a short path near the end of Hanapepe Place. It is located just below a high cliff where waves crash underneath and shoot into a cave which ejects the water like a reverse blowhole. You get a great view from the rock overlook on the west side of the high cliff. Very cool! Just past the cave are ladders where the “Others” frequented during many LOST seasons. This short jaunt gives you a great taste of raw Hawaii and the power of its surf. High cliffs above the Spitting Cave are dangerous. Jumping off the shore is not recommended. An extremely scenic spot.
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/spitting-cave
3. Makapu’u Lighthouse for a morning wake-up
Photo: Bill Watson
This is one of those “get a lot of bang for your buck” trails - you have the elevation, the views, the beach, tide pools, the mountains, the sunrise and sunsets, the island breezes (windy at times), rock scrambling, a great workout, interesting plants, and cliffs…. it can’t really get better - did I say it’s on Oahu close to Honolulu? Many use this as a warm-up to their day as it really invigorates. We’ve hiked this multiple times and based on weather and time of day you get lots of variety. Starting off from the parking lot, hike up a gentle incline with Koko Head to your right across the grassy flatlands…. reach a view of the ocean straight ahead and take a sharp left, and the paved trail makes its way up along the sea cliffs. Along this stretch, look back across the parking lot to your left through the pass to east Oahu and Rabbit Island (not only does it look like a rabbit lying on its side, it was inhabited by rabbits at one time). Take a side trip at the stone pillars and the whale sign straight down the side of the cliffs (not as scary as it might sound) to the tide pools and the “Dragon’s Nostrils” or a couple of cool spouting blowholes driven by the tides - the climb back up will give you a really good workout. Further on up the trail, pass through stands of cacti and plants native to desert environments. Finally you see the lighthouse (off limits) down to the right and lastly the observation platform with views of the mountains and beaches on the southeast side of Oahu. If you are still thirsty for some more hiking and views, hike up the ridge to the highest bunkers to reach the very top of Makapu’u Head. There will be plenty of local spray paint art on the walls… and on the way down be sure to take a left out to the cliffs just before the trail takes its sharp right turn down to the parking lot - this is where many LOST scenes were filmed at Pele’s Chair… also remember this is a naturally dry part of the island so be sure to take water and sunscreen. Really an awesome hike. This is a must do!
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/makapuu-lighthouse
4. Koko Crater Railway Trail for a weekend workout
Photo: Bill Watson
Another great hike east of Honolulu, we’ve enjoyed this twice, in 2008 and again in 2011. Very popular trail provides a great workout with great views along an abandoned railway that goes 1,048 steps straight up the crater. Weekends are crowded because there are a lot of health conscious people in Hawaii. It is strenuous and aerobic. Take water and sunscreen. The breeze at the top is extremely refreshing. Some folks run up (triathlon folks) as well as the local police, lifeguards, etc. It can be hard on the knees, especially coming down, so take your time if you need to. Also you can walk around the trestle if you don’t want to walk over it, but watch out for the bees. The view of Hanauma Bay is nice; you also can see the firing range and look into Koko Crater. There is also an alternative ridge trail to the summit that starts on the highway past Hanauma Bay. Hawaii-Five-O used this trail in 2012 for the Mai Ka Wa Kahiko episode when Officer Weston sprains her ankle racing McGarrett up the railway.
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/koko-crater-railway-trail
5. Kaiwa Ridge Trail for chillin’
Photo: Bill Watson
Another great short hike with some elevation looks over Lanakai and Kailua beaches and the twin Mokulua Islands; Kaiwa Ridge is only 0.6 mile each way but gains 500 ft to some great views - It takes about 30 minutes to hike from the trailhead across from the Mid Pacific Country Club to the second pillbox (elev. 565-ft), and another 10 minutes to reach the ridge’s highest point (elev. 603-ft). Have hiked this twice in the summer and both times were fairly quick visits. The first part of the trail is steep, rocky, and slippery. The trail is not well defined at first, but just keep moving up the hill to the ridge. Weather can be variable, and the ridge pretty windy. The view is great - standing or sitting on top of the pillboxes is a nice place to kick back and enjoy the breezes. Not as demanding as the Koko Crater Railway Trail or even Makapu’u Lighthouse, but for a quick rush it’s a great hike. You can catch the kayaks in town as a nice side activity.
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/kaiwa-ridge-pillbox-trail
Maui:
6. Nakalele Blowhole puts on a show
Photo: Bill Watson
Nakalele Blowhole is located at MM 38.5 on the north side of Maui, terrain is rocky and sandy, but if you take your time, not dangerous. It is a very surreal area (it’s adjacent to an area called the Acid War Zone); they should make movies here. The danger exists at the blowhole on windy days with high surf - you can get sucked in… there are several Youtube videos where someone has almost fallen in and a guy got swept away and died the day after we were there. If you stay on the land side of the blowhole you can get sprayed and not be in danger - they say in Hawaii to never turn your back on the ocean - this place is notorious for rogue waves. This is a short steep hike down the hillside. Be careful of the sand on the rocks as it can be slippery. You have some awesome views and the blowhole really puts on a show, worth the time if you take the drive around the top of Maui. We really enjoyed it.
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/nakalele-blowhole
7. Top of Haleakala - Pa ka’oao Trail (White Hill Trail) exposes a surreal vista
Photo: Bill Watson
You could consider this the top of the Sliding Sands trail, an easy walk from the visitor’s center at the top of Haleakala. Starting from the VC, you walk around the base of the cone, then hike around and up the side along a rocky path that overlooks the Haleakala Valley. We started in a blowing and cold cloud covered fog, which gradually cleared. The view from the top is surreal. Highly recommend this as a short hike with a great reward. Also don’t forget to hike as far down as you have time (giving yourself about 1.5 to 2x the time to come back up) down the Sliding Sands trail. A totally excellent adventure!
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/pa-kaoao-trail-white-hill-trail
Hawaii:
8. Hike the Kilauea Iki Trail over a lava lake
Photo: Bill Watson
The sulfur dioxide content was high that day in other areas of the park, but the Kilauea Iki Trail was safe. This area was an 800 foot crater before it erupted in 1959 filling with a 400 foot hot lava lake, which has since cooled and is now solid (although when you realize real lava is still about a mile right under you get an eerie feeling). The crater was even used for filming the 2001 Planet of the Apes. Starting just past the Thurston Lava Tube at the Kilauea Iki Overlook parking lot, you can go either direction, but we took the 4-mile (ok, so this is not a short hike but it’s not demanding) counter-clockwise loop first along the rim and then down to the floor of the Crater – the trail goes to the right, skirts the rim and then quickly descends 400 feet; the walk across the lake is unshaded so can be hot (take water), keep to the left to ascend the switchbacks on the far side. It took us 2 hrs for entire loop. This hike gives you a great taste of Volcanoes National Park with the native bright red lehua flowers, examples of lava spatter, holes, cracks, uplifts, expansion, and other traces of volcanic activity. Not to miss!
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/kilauea-iki-trail
9. Pu’u Huluhulu Trail tops the Saddle
Photo: Bill Watson
Near the turnoff to Mauna Kea along the famous highway known as the Saddle, just past the 28 MM heading west and just off the road to Mauna Loa is a 20 min hiking trail up a cinder cone to a view of vast lava fields and a moon-like landscape – the hike is easy and you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, and Hulalai.
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/puu-huluhulu-trail-saddle-road
Kauai:
10. Shipwreck Beach Trail - plunge off the rock
Photo: Bill Watson
Great short hike to Shipwreck Rock on the south end of Kauai where Anne Heche and Harrison Ford in Six Days Seven Nights jumped off. My son jumped, I did not. Hike is easy along the beach from the Hyatt on Poipu beach. At the end of the beach, take the trail up the slope and around to the rock for a great sunset view. Also hike along the trail to the east as well; be careful of the steep cliffs and the rocks below are treacherous if you fall. Highly recommended.
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/shipwreck-beach-trail
11. The Kalalau Trail to Hanakapiai Beach
Photo: Victoria Blocker
A great hike! We wanted to hike the Na Pali coastline and afterwards cool off and snorkel at Tunnels Beach. The trail begins at Kee Beach at Ha’ena State Park on the North Side of Kauai at the end of the road; the terrain is rocky, full of tree roots and lots of the famous slippery Kauai red mud when wet - the first 2 miles take you to Hanakapi’ai beach (a permit is required past there). There are plenty of parking spaces if you start early. Take sunscreen, bug spray, water and your boots may get muddy (it’s slippery and you’ll need the ankle support). Movies filmed along the Kalalau trail include Raiders of the Lost Ark, King Kong, and Jurassic Park; the longer hike requires a permit and is 22 miles RT. From the beach, you can actually take a 2 mile rocky spur hike without a permit up into the Hanakapi’ai valley to the waterfall (trail not maintained, lots of rocks) if you have a full half-day. The hike to the beach takes a little more than an hour, and you’ll have a great time wading through the lagoon and the cave at the end of the beach. The hike is challenging. Swimming or even wading in the ocean is dangerous, and plenty of signs will tell you that. The surf and rip currents are the worst in winter with high surf conditions, and drownings occur here! We did this hike in summer and the trail was mostly dry, but the red mud was still slippery. The beach is great, and you almost expect to see a T-rex jump out of the dense forest along the way. The views and experience are well worth the effort! Highly recommended!
More here: http://alltrails.com/trail/us/hawaii/hanakapiai-beach-kalalau-trail
12. Queen’s Bath - take a dip
Photo: Bill Watson
After hiking the Na Pali coast as far as we could without an overnight permit and then snorkeling at Tunnels Beach, we headed down to the Queen’s bath to chill a bit. Nice little hike down a muddy trail - you can slip if you’re not careful, and then you reach the lava shelf…. turn left and walk along the shelf to the Queen’s Bath - which is a natural pool on a lava bench, and dangerous if surf is high (usually in the winter), or can even be dangerous in calm surf if a rogue wave comes in. Access to Queen’s Bath is via the trail off Kapiolani Rd near Punahele Rd in Princeville. After a few minutes and dropping 120 ft, the trail encounters the ocean at the lava shoreline where a small waterfall drops directly into the ocean. Go to the left along the lava for about 300 yards - the Queen’s bath is recessed in the rock and is part of a horseshoe-shaped lava cut. You can jump about 10 ft. from the shelf into the water, but make sure you check out where the deep hole in the shelf is before you jump as these volcanic rocks are like glass along the edges. Great views of Kauai all around.
